On these models, the engine mounting system incorporates four molded mounts, the right and left mounts bear the engine/transaxle, while the front and rear mounts counteract the torquing action of the powertrain. These components do not need much attention; however, if there is a broken or worn out engine mount, it is necessary to replace it as soon as possible to avoid damage to or additional wear of other components of the drive train. To check the mounts, the engine must be lifted off the mounts creating some space for checking the damage; this is done by placing jack stands under some portions of the vehicle, placing a jack on the engine oil pan and placing of a wooden block between the jack and the vehicle before bucking up the vehicle. Cracks, hardened rubber, and the signs of separation from the metal backing of the mounts must be also looked for and, finally, relative movement between mount plates and the engine or frame must be controlled. If this is so the engine should drop and the mount fasteners tightened. Rubber preservative may be used to reduce rate of decay. For replacement, the front mount has to be raised, the vehicle has to be properly supported to have the weight off the mounts and the pertinent bolts to put in a new mount need to be removed. When doing the left mount you remove the negative battery cable, air filter, as well as the housing and do the same thing as the right and replace it. The right mount need to have the lower splash shield, engine ground strap, several other bolts to be taken off before the new mount is to be placed. Rear mount replacement is nearly analogous to the front procedure which involves lifting the engine, removing the heat shield, the bracket mounting bolts and finally fitting the new back end stoutly.

Never disassemble the oil pressure relief valve spring and plunger from the oil pump; if the oil pressure relief valve is defective replace the complete oil pump assembly. First un-bolt and take-off the timing belt and the crankshaft sprocket, then the oil pan and the oil pump pick-up tube. Next, remove the bolts and its cover using a wrench, after that pull out the oil pump from the block. For inspection, unbolt the cover from the back of the oil pump housing and remove the inner and outer rotors and as a process make sure of the direction they are to be reinstalled. wash all parts in solvent and inspect the rotors, pump cover and housing for such damage as score, wear, pitting or denting; if any, replace the assembly. Check the oil pump cover for warpage with the help of straight edge and the feeler gauge; if found to be warped beyond the limit then replace the pump. The thickness and diameter of the outer rotor should be measured with a micrometer and, if the thickness is less than or the diameter is more than the specified limit, the pump should be replaced. Check the thickness of the inner rotor and if you find it is less than the prescribed limit replace the pump. Insert the outer rotor into the housing and then measure the clearance at the opposite side: if this clearance is higher than the maximum allowable, replace the pump. The inner rotor shall be put in place and the gap between the indentations of the outer and inner rotors taken; if this gap is larger than indicated the pump assembly shall be replaced and the inner rotor put in place with the mark uppermost. Gauge the side clearance with a straightedge against the faces of the pump housing and the rotors: if the measurement is more than the acceptable limit, change the pump. For installation, first, pour engine oil into the housing of the oil pump and install the pump cover and thereafter tighten the bolts up to the recommended torque value. The gasket must be placed on the mating surface of the engine block while the flats of the rotor must be engaged with the crankshaft before the oil pump housing is placed on the engine block. Last, add and torque the pump to block bolts and do the reverse to how they were removed to finally complete the installation.

Support the back of your car by lifting it up, then use jackstands under each frame rail to hold it there. Remove both rear wheels afterward. Separate the driveshaft from the axle, then unhook the ABS sensor and disconnect the parking brake cable from its anchor on the parking brake lever. On the rear axle, free up the vent connection, take off the brake line attachment block from the axle tube, detach the brake lines from clips and brackets on the axle housing, and remove the back brakes calipers. Remember to support the caliper weights with string to avoid breaking the flexible brake line. Begin installation on the back axle by raising it using a floor jack, adding another jack if necessary due to the offset rear differential. Pop off the stabilizer bar bolts and get rid of the lower mounting bolts holding back the shocks. After putting jack(s) beneath the axle, loosen Dakota's U-bolts connecting axle to springs, slowly lower and take out the axle from under the truck. Start installation by doing the opposite of what you just removed. First, retighten the U-bolt nuts on Dakota models and the caliper mounting bolts on all models. Tighten the lug nuts, check and refill the axle with necessary lubricant. 4WD models need you to first raise the front of the car and support it with jack stands, then unscrew the front wheels, take out the driveaxles, and move on. Take out the bolts holding the cross member to its place, take out the cross member, disconnect the driveshaft where it meets the differential pinion flange, and safely move the driveshaft out of your way. Disconnect the vent tube from the differential cover, prop up the axle with a floor jack under the differential, then take out the bolts that attach the axle assembly to the left engine mount and the pinion nose bracket, before removing the axle's final mounting bolts on the right engine mount. Lower the jack very carefully and remove the axle component from underneath the car. Instructions for putting it back are the same steps in reverse order.

Regardless of whether the head was sent to an automotive repair shop for valve servicing, ensure it is clean before beginning reassembly. If the head was sent out for valve servicing, the valves and related components will already be in place, allowing you to start the reassembly procedure. Begin by installing the spring seats or valve rotators, if equipped, before the valve seals. New seals should be installed on each of the valve guides; gently tap each seal into place using a hammer and a deep socket or seal installation tool until it is completely seated on the guide, ensuring the valve stem seals are installed evenly and carefully to avoid damage. Avoid twisting or cocking the seals during installation to ensure proper sealing on the valve stems. Starting at one end of the head, lubricate and install the first valve, applying moly-base grease or clean engine oil to the valve stem. Position the valve springs and shims, if used, over the valves, compress the springs with a valve spring compressor, and carefully install the keepers in the groove, then slowly release the compressor to ensure the keepers seat properly. A small dab of grease can be applied to each keeper to hold it in place if necessary. Repeat this procedure for the remaining valves, ensuring that components are returned to their original locations without mixing them up. Check the installed valve spring height with a ruler graduated in 1/32-inch increments or a dial caliper; if the head was sent out for service work, the installed height should be correct, but do not automatically assume it is. The measurement is taken from the top of each spring seat to the bottom of the retainer, and if the height exceeds specified limits, shims can be added under the springs to correct it, but do not shim the springs to the point where the installed height is less than specified. Apply moly-base grease to the rocker arm faces and the shaft, then install the rocker arm assembly on the cylinder head, followed by the installation of the camshafts, hydraulic lash adjusters, and rocker arm assemblies onto the head.